ICMMWLD :: Volume #1

#71: The king of Sichuan cuisine

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„This flavor, this flavor was really wonderful, has not thought that ‚gongbao chicken’ this ordinary simple dish, can make such delicacy unexpectedly, this cook was really certainly.” “这味道,这味道实在是太美妙了,没有想到‘宫保鸡丁’这道平平常常的家常菜,竟然能做出如此的美味,这厨艺真是绝了。” king recovers from the delicacy, said approvingly. king has eaten Capital City „chef” character, but king thought that is Capital City these chefs are not necessarily able to make such delicious „gongbao chicken” comes. 王老从美味中回过神来,不由地赞叹地说道。王老可是吃过京城“御厨”的人物,可是王老觉得就是京城那些御厨们都未必能做出这么美味的“宫保鸡丁”来的。 „So is really delicious?” “真的这么美味？” Zhao Yan somewhat suspected that clamped diced chicken to enter the mouth. 赵岩有些怀疑地夹了一块鸡丁进嘴。 „This... this... was also too delicious.” “这…这…也太好吃了吧。” Even if the department-level cadre like Zhao Yan, meets the big leadership that faces over a thousand people of scenes to be without turning a hair, this diced chicken, made on his face somewhat move the face unexpectedly, was this „gongbao chicken” is too delicious. 哪怕像赵岩这样厅级干部,一个开会面对上千人的场面都面不改色的大领导,这一块鸡丁,竟然让他的脸上有些动颜了,实在是这道“宫保鸡丁”太美味了。 ...... …… After Zhao Min carries „gongbao chicken”, the leaf glory started the second dish, the second dish of leaf glory preparation was „twice-cooked pork”. 等赵敏把“宫保鸡丁”端出去后,叶荣耀开始着手第二道菜了,叶荣耀准备的第二道菜是“回锅肉”。 „Twice-cooked pork” as together the traditional Sichuan cuisine, the position in Sichuan cuisine is very important, has „the king of Sichuan cuisine” laudatory name. “回锅肉”作为一道传统川菜,在川菜中的地位是非常重要的,有“川菜之王”的美称。 Regarding is not the people in Sichuan province, is unable to understand the people in Sichuan province why „twice-cooked pork” decision „the king of Sichuan cuisine”, after all in Sichuan cuisine, most delicious is not this „twice-cooked pork”, but is „spicy fish” and „fragrant spicy crab” these Sichuan cuisine. 对于不是川省的人而言,是无法理解川省的人为什么把“回锅肉”定为“川菜之王”,毕竟在川菜里面,最好吃的不是这道“回锅肉”,而是“水煮鱼”和“香辣蟹”那些川菜。 Also no wonder, the well-established, broad and profound Sichuan cuisine may be called a vegetable/dish standard, hundred vegetable/dish hundred tastes, dozens taste departments, over a thousand famous cuisine, are weeds through the old to bring forth the new to all flowers bloom together, Cantonese cuisine that is conceited continually, is not necessarily able to keep off its point. 也难怪,源远流长,博大精深的川菜堪称一菜一格,百菜百味,有数十个味系,上千道名菜,更是推陈出新百花齐放,连自视甚高的粤菜,也未必能挡其锋芒。 „Twice-cooked pork” has the cannot erase brand mark in the Xiachuan province will of the people, is in a native of Sichuan throat a forever small claw. “回锅肉”在华夏川省人心里有着不可磨灭的烙印,是川人喉咙里永远的一只小爪子。 Recedes another region in the traveller far from home, travel thinking is difficult to disappear to you gently flexure several, thereupon tears and saliva simultaneous/uniform Di, a pair of eyes altogether red oil color, this taste under heart, on tongue! 在游子远走他乡,旅思难消的时候给你轻轻地挠几下,于是乎泪水与口水齐滴,双眼共红油一色,这滋味才下心头,又上舌头！ „Twice-cooked pork” is the nine revolutions of pills of immortality of native of Sichuan, even after a day of pain, is hungry but actually unable to scatter but actually, so long as comes on one „twice-cooked pork” to add two fights of bowl rice plain rice, the sliced meat and oil soup one and washes white, immediately is refreshing, vitality restoration. “回锅肉”是川人的九转仙丹,哪怕一天辛劳后饿得偏偏倒倒来撒不起,只要来上一盘“回锅肉”加两斗碗白米干饭,肉片与油汤汤一并洗白,顿时神清气爽,元气恢复。 „Twice-cooked pork” regarding a native of Sichuan, means that warm, woman and family/home, mother reward with food and drink the son who the distant place returns, fries plate „twice-cooked pork” ; The wife loves dearly tired husband, the buying offer twice-cooked pork ; Entire family has a sumptuous meal to satisfy desires, is the twice-cooked pork. “回锅肉”对于川人而言,同样意味着温暖、女人和家,母亲犒劳远方归来的儿子,炒盘“回锅肉”;妻子心疼劳累的夫君,来盘回锅肉;全家打牙祭解馋,还是回锅肉。 material enormous rich today, „twice-cooked pork” is still a native of Sichuan the complex that is hard to give up. 在物质极大丰富的今天,“回锅肉”依然是川人难以割舍的情结。 Sichuan province housewife who will not make soup, but can also become a good wife and loving mother, but if „twice-cooked pork” will not fry, that wants to work as a vixen is very difficult to keep the job, the small plate of meat, concerns the matter of lifetime importance unexpectedly, wants to come unable to treat lightly. 一个不会煲汤的川省主妇,还可以当一个贤妻良母,但要是“回锅肉”都不会炒的话,那想当个泼妇也很难保住饭碗,小小一盘肉,竟关乎终身大事,想来也不可以等闲视之。 From this can be inferred, „twice-cooked pork” is called the king of Sichuan cuisine not to usurp. First, the Sichuan cuisine to be famous hot, many cool boundaries. What „twice-cooked pork” line is the Golden Mean, impartial, Masahito , has the regal style. 由此可见一斑,“回锅肉”被称为川菜之王并非篡得。其一,川菜以麻辣著称,也不乏清凉境界。“回锅肉”行的是中庸之道,不偏不倚,中正仁和,颇有王者之风。 Second, „twice-cooked pork” selection is simple, however has to transform castoffs into delicaties the interesting part. Fourth, recook as a cooking way, many deductive dishes, kingly way big line. Fifth, „ twice-cooked pork „ fragrance is strong, stir fries the meat, the village satisfies a craving. 其二,“回锅肉”取材简单,然颇有化腐朽为神奇之妙处。其四,回锅作为一种烹饪方式,有诸多演绎菜品,王道大行呀。其五,“回锅肉“香味浓烈,一家炒肉,全村过瘾。 leaf Rongyao chooses the second dish makes this „twice-cooked pork” the reason is, the guest who oneself Third Uncle invites has one is the Sichuan province person, this dish can make him have a going home feeling. 叶荣耀选择第二道菜做这道“回锅肉”的原因是,自己三叔宴请的客人有一位是川省人,这道菜能让他有种回家的感觉。 „Quite fragrant, what vegetable/dish flavor how is fragrant?” “好香呀,什么菜味道怎么香呀？” king is infatuated with „gongbao chicken” delicacy, violent fragrance to/clashes the nose. 王老正陶醉“宫保鸡丁”的美味,一股猛烈的香味冲鼻而来。 This is in a kitchen fragrance that flutters. 这是厨房里的飘过来的香味。 „Is... is ‚twice-cooked pork’, is ‚twice-cooked pork’, to is ‚twice-cooked pork’.” “是…是‘回锅肉’,是‘回锅肉’,对就是‘回锅肉’。” Zhao Yan said excitedly. How long did not know, Zhao Yan record is unclear, this „twice-cooked pork” was the food that the childhood most liked, every year celebrated a holiday, in the family/home will make together „twice-cooked pork” fragrantly. 赵岩激动地说道。不知道多久了,赵岩自己都记不清了,这道“回锅肉”是自己儿时最喜欢的菜,每年过节的时候,家里都会做一道香喷喷“回锅肉”。 „Twice-cooked pork” recorded the Zhao Yan childhood glorious memory, but after growing up, particularly oneself old mother in the past, oneself have not smelled again such fragrantly „twice-cooked pork”, this has to make Zhao Yan specially excited. “回锅肉”记载了赵岩儿时许多美好的回忆,只是长大后,尤其是自己老母亲过去后,自己已经再也没有闻到这么香喷喷的“回锅肉”了,这不得不让赵岩特别地激动。 „Director Zhao, are you all right?” “赵厅长,你没事吧？” Zhao Min somewhat worried that looks Zhao Yan asked. Even leaf glory vegetable/dish flavor is very fragrant, he does not use such excitedly, simply with meeting separate more than ten family member, is somewhat scary. 赵敏有些担心地看着赵岩问道。就算叶荣耀这道菜味道很香,他也不用这么激动吧,简直跟遇到失散十几的亲人似的,有些吓人。 Zhao Min is not the Sichuan province person, cannot understand the special mood of native of Sichuan's this dish to „twice-cooked pork”. 赵敏不是川省人,不能理解川人对“回锅肉”这道菜的特殊情怀。 „Sister-in-law, you goes to the kitchen to come out that twice-cooked pork end quickly, I could not bear, I must eat this immediately ‚twice-cooked pork’.” Zhao Yan said excitedly. “弟妹,你快去厨房把那盘回锅肉端出来,我受不了了,我要马上吃上一口这‘回锅肉’。”赵岩激动地说道。 „Good, my goes to the end.” “好的,我这就去端。” Zhao Min is also very happy, it seems like that the mother-in-law is insightful, in making this leaf glory come home is the master chef is really right. 赵敏也很开心,看来还是自己婆婆有眼光,让这个叶荣耀来家里当大厨实在是太对了。 Has not seen on the first dish, the second dish did not have on the table, have two big leaders of these two old middle age become this excitedly? 没看到才上第一道菜,第二道菜都还没有上桌,这两位一老一中年的两位大领导已经激动成这样了吗？ „Director Zhao, how you affirmed that this second dish is ‚twice-cooked pork’?” “赵厅长,你怎么这么肯定这第二道菜是‘回锅肉’呢？” Zhao horizon somewhat asked puzzled, oneself also smelled the strong fragrance that in the kitchen transmitted, but how oneself could not hear that this dish was „twice-cooked pork”? 赵天涯有些不解地问道,自己也闻到厨房里传来的浓烈的香味,可是自己怎么就闻不出来这道菜是“回锅肉”呢？ „You are not the Sichuan province person, did not understand that ‚twice-cooked pork’ position in Sichuan province will of the people, this ‚twice-cooked pork’ in the Sichuan province will of the people, this ‚twice-cooked pork’ is mother vegetable/dish, has mother's flavor, will never forget.” After Zhao Yanping homocentric in complex mood, opening the mouth answered. “你不是川省人,不理解‘回锅肉’在川省人心里的地位,这‘回锅肉’在川省人心里,这‘回锅肉’是母亲菜,有母亲的味道,是永远不会忘掉的。”赵岩平复心里的复杂的情绪后,开口解释道。 „Has not thought that ‚twice-cooked pork’ the position in the Sichuan province person heart is so high.” Zhao horizon said surprised. “没有想到‘回锅肉’在川省人心中地位那么高。”赵天涯吃惊地说道。 „Small leaf you do not know, ‚twice-cooked pork’ has the king of Sichuan cuisine ‚’ the laudatory name, the Sichuan province people like this food obviously, never expected that your nephew, south the farmer, can make such typical Sichuan cuisine unexpectedly, many Sichuan cuisine master chefs are inferior to him.” “小叶你不知道吧,‘回锅肉’可是有‘川菜之王’的美称,可见川省人多么喜欢这道菜啊,没有想到你这位侄子,一个南方农民,竟然能做这么地道的川菜,很多川菜大厨都不如他啊。” king said sigh with emotion. Now king the farmer nephew to leaf horizon is curious, this is really a folk cook grandmaster. 王老感慨地说道。现在王老对叶天涯的这位农民侄子非常好奇,这真是一位民间的厨艺宗师啊。 ...... …… „The speed that glory, you cook is quite fast.” “荣耀,你炒菜的速度好快啊。” Zhao Min entered the kitchen, saw the leaf glory to make the second dish, what if truly Director Zhao said was „twice-cooked pork”. 赵敏进了厨房,见叶荣耀已经做好第二道菜了,确实如赵厅长说的是“回锅肉”。 Goes out the first vegetable/dish end from oneself, by the present also three minutes, never expected that his second dish has burnt, this speed may usually the speed of stir-fried dish quickly. 只是从自己把第一道菜端出去,到现在也就三分钟的时间,没有想到他的第二道菜都已经烧好了,这速度可比自己平时炒菜的速度快多了。 „When hehe, stir-fried dish the stove fire, the speed of stir-fried dish was fiercely fast, vegetable/dish that like this stirs fry also delicious.” “呵呵,炒菜时灶火猛一点,炒菜的速度就快了,这样炒出来的菜也会好吃点。” leaf Rongyao explained said that went to the hotel to eat meal the person, went to the hotel kitchen to have a look, will discover when the chef in hotel cooked, in the pot always braves to catch fire, the speed of preparing food was also fast. 叶荣耀解释说道,去饭店吃饭的人,去饭店厨房里看看,就会发现饭店里的厨师炒菜时,锅里面总是冒着火,做菜的速度又快。 This is overdone to the vegetable/dish that people often said that making the fire burn in the surface of vegetable/dish, burns the oil of vegetable/dish surface, such vegetable/dish ripe rapidness, the flavor is also very delicious. 这就是人们常说的给菜过火,让火在菜的表面烧起来,把菜表面的油烧起来,这样菜熟的快,味道也很好吃。 Naturally this is overdone to the vegetable/dish, but must have certain technology, if not grasp well, very easy vegetable/dish scorching, serious possibly causes the fire. 当然这个给菜过火,可是要有一定的技术的,要是掌握不好的话,很容易把菜给烧焦了,严重的可能引起火灾的。
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